Big Bend has been on our list for some time now. We actually had a river float trip in Santa Elena Canyon booked last year, thanks Corona. We decided at the last minute, (like 9pm on Sunday night) to go for it for New Year’s week. In our past research, we found out that Terlingua was pretty much the go to spot for accommodations. (More on that later) We headed out Monday morning. Let me also say, we were unaware of what Mother Nature had in store in the way of a huge winter storm!

On Wednesday, a massive winter storm blew in that evidently isn’t that common for the area. The roads out of Terlingua were impassable, as well as the roads in the park in the higher altitudes. It did however add a layer of beauty you can’t imagine. We consider ourselves lucky to have witnessed it…even if it meant sacrificing water at our hotel.

The park is absolutely beautiful. We hiked into Santa Elena Canyon and I do regret not being able to do our canoe trip. The Window is not to be missed as well as Lost Mine trail. Boquillas Crossing is closed due to Covid, but we would have loved the opportunity to be able to do that as well. There were some locals selling their treasures at the top of the canyon overlook luckily.

Now, let’s talk about Terlingua. If you’re a National Park enthusiast, you know that gateway towns can be amazing, charming and quaint, or very limited on services. Terlingua is the latter. It’s probably my least favorite I’ve encountered. Very limited accommodations, you can search Airbnb for the quirky ones, one major “resort” in town with motel and RV hookups, Big Bend Resort and adventures, where we stayed. (In my sleeping bag on top of the bed because the room hasn’t been updated since 1992) Very few restaurants, but there is the Ghostown, and the Starlight Theater Restaurant, that are redeeming qualities. There is a grocery store in town that is I swear like a Tardis, you walk in and they have EVERYTHING you can think of! Terlingua’s best quality is it’s about 10 minutes from the entrance to the park. Definitely expect a line to the entrance in nice weather.

Now, if towns with scary infrastructure aren’t your thing, you don’t want to wear shoes when you get out of the shower, and aren’t self sufficient in an RV. There are options for lodging. About 17 miles from Terlingua is the Golf Resort in Lajitas, it’s super nice, and they have a beer drinking goat as a Mayor. What’s not to love. You can also stay in Marathon which is a 40 minute drive into the park, but they have the famous Gage Hotel. Honestly, Terlingua is the most convenient, but don’t expect much. I probably would have opted for Lajitas if I knew it existed before planning the trip.

Overall it was a beautiful experience. As most of the parks are. Honestly, that’s what we’re there for anyway. Just bring a sleeping bag, this is one where anything can happen, Winter Storms, no water, 1992 decor, and beer drinking goats!

Safe travels.

M.